Wintertime Christmas Stocking Crochet Pattern

The Wintertime Christmas Stocking crochet pattern is a fairly easy Christmas Stocking pattern that features some beautiful colour work!

This is the third crochet Christmas Stocking that I have worked in tapestry crochet.  The first two stockings, the Comfort and Joy Crochet Christmas Stockings, were published a few years ago.  They are still the stockings that my family hangs on Christmas Eve! This year I am adding this Wintertime stocking.

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There is something wonderful about the smell of pine around Christmas! I love going for walks through the forests near my home during the wintertime for this reason! The crisp, cold air and the smell of pine and forest really do a lot to liven the spirits during the long nights that we experience in the Northern hemisphere this time of year.

The Wintertime Christmas Stocking Crochet Pattern features colour work that looks like a pine tree forest.  There is a little bit of snow in the air, maybe even some icicles hanging from the branches.  It is a picture of winter!

The stocking is worked from the cuff down to the toe.  It is worked as one piece, mostly in rounds except for the heel which features a heel flap and is worked in rows.  For the most part the pattern consists of front and back post double crochet stitches along with some single crochet worked in the back loop only.  This is a Christmas Stocking that I hope you will treasure for years to come.

Materials:

For this crochet stocking, you will need two different colours of yarn.  I invite you to choose your favourites! In my sample I have used a 100% acrylic yarn called Heartland by Lion Brand Yarn.  

I have paired the yarn with a 5 mm crochet hook and in the video below you will see me using a handmade wand hook by Bowltech Crochet Hooks.

PDF Copies of this Pattern:

This pattern will be written out in full followed by a full video tutorial below.  If you would like to add this pattern to your library, or purchase an ad free PDF, you may do so from either my Etsy or Ravelry Shop linked below:

Click Here for the Wintertime Christmas Stocking on Etsy

Click Here for the Wintertime Christmas Stocking on Ravelry

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Enjoy and happy crocheting!

Sarah

Wintertime Christmas Stocking Crochet Pattern:

Skill Level: Intermediate

Gauge:  18 sts x 16 rows of sc in blo = 4 inches

Finished Size: 7.5 x 23 inches laid flat

Yarn: Heartland® by Lion Brand® (100% Acrylic; 5 oz, 142 g; Approx. 251 yds, 230 m). Worsted/medium Weight (4). Colour A: Grand Canyon; Colour B: Cuyahoga Valley – 1 Ball of each colour

Hook: Size H/8 (5.0 mm) Hook. Adjust hook size if necessary to obtain correct gauge.

Notions: Yarn Needle, stitch marker

Stitches and Abbreviations

Blo – Back Loop Only

Bpdc – Back Post Double Crochet

Ch – Chain

Fpdc – Front Post Double Crochet

Rpt – Repeat

Sc – Single Crochet

Sc2tog – Single Crochet Two Stitches Together

Sc3tog – Single Crochet Three Stitches Together

Sk – Skip

Sl St – Slip Stitch

Yo – Yarn Over

Pattern Notes:

• Pattern is written in American English terms.
• Pattern is worked in rounds.
• Heel is worked in rows.
• Ch 1 at beginning of round does not count as stitch.
• Ch 3 at beginning counts as a stitch.
• Weave in ends as needed.
• Do not turn at the end of each round.
• When colour is not in use, carry it behind the working yarn.
• When reading the chart you will always read the chart in one direction (ie always from right to left or always from left to right).
• In the chart below, each box is equivalent to one single crochet stitch worked in the back loop only of the stitch below.
• You will start reading the chart from the top (the chart is worked upside down as the stocking is worked from the top down.
• In the chart below, white boxes are worked in your colour A, black boxes are worked in your colour B.

Free Crochet Pattern:

Cuff:

With Colour A, ch 72, without twisting chain, sl st in the first st to make a ring.

Rnd 1: Ch 3 (Counts as dc), dc in the next st and in each st around; join with a sl st in the top of ch-3.  Do not turn.  (72 sts)

Rnd 2: Ch 1, fpdc around the 1st st, *bpdc around the next st, fpdc around the next st, bpdc around the next st; rpt from * around, join with a sl st in the top of the ch-3.  (72 Sts)

Rnds 3-5: Repeat rnd 2.  Switch to colour B.

Continue with colour B:

Rnds 6-7: Working in the blo, ch 1, * sc in each st all the way around; Join with a sl st in the first st. Switch to colour B at the end of round 5.  (72 sts) Switch to colour A.

Rnds 8 – 42: Beginning with colour A, continue working in the blo, sc in each st around, working the graph below beginning at round 35 (at the top of the chart). Each square on the graph is equivalent to one sc, change the yarn colour as the need arises by completing the stitch prior with the new colour yarn (i.e. In the stitch prior to the stitch worked in the new colour, with colour A insert your hook in the next st and draw up a loop.  Drop colour A, pick up colour B and draw through the two loops on your hook completing the stitch, work the next st in the new colour).  Carry the non working yarn in behind the working yarn.  Join with a sl st in the first st at the end of each round.  Join Colour B in last st.  Fasten off colour A.

NOTE: When working this chart you will always work in the same direction as you are working in rounds.  Ie, Always read and work the chart from right to left. 

Rnds 43-44: With colour B and working in the blo, ch 1, sc in each st all the way around; join with a sl st in the first st.  (72 Sts). Fasten off colour B.

Heel Flap (Worked in rows):

Find the centre stitch at the back of the stocking (This will be the stitch where you joined at the end of each round).  From that stitch count 10 sts to the right and join colour A with a sl st.

Row 1: With colour A and working through both loops, sc in the same st as joining and in each of the next 20 sts; Turn leaving remaining sts unworked.  (21 sts)

Rows 2-8: Ch 1, sc in each across; Turn.  (21 sts)

Heel Shaping:

Row 9: Ch 1, sc in each of the next 16 sts; turn leaving remaining sts unworked.  (16 sts)

Row 10: Ch 1, sc in each of the next 11 sts; turn leaving the remaining sts unworked.  (11 sts)

Row 11: Ch 1, sc in each of the next 11 sts, sc in the next st 3 rows below (row 8), sl st in the next st; turn. (12 sc)

Row 12: Sk the first sl st, ch 1, sc in each of the next 12 sts, sc in the next st 3 rows below (row 9), sl st in the next st; turn. (13 sc)

Row 13: Sk the first sl st, ch 1, sc in each of the next 13 sts, sc in the next st 2 rows below, sl st in the next st; turn. (14 sc)

Row 14: Sk the first sl st, ch 1, sc in each of the next 14 sts, sc in the next st 2 rows below, sl st in the next st; turn. (15 sts)

Row 15: Sk the first sl st, ch 1, sc in each of the next 15 sts, sc in the next st 2 rows below, turn. (16 sc)

Row 16: ch 1, sc in each of the next 16 sts, sc in the next st 2 rows below; continue working along the side of the heel working 8 sts across, sl st in the next st of sock body, turn leaving remaining sts unworked (25 sts)

Row 17: ch 1, sk the first sl st, sc in each of the next 25 sts, working alongside of the heel, work 8 sc, sl st into next st on sock body; fasten off colour A.  (33 sts). 

Foot (Worked in Rounds):

Find the Center back of heel and join colour B with a sl st.  

Rnd 1: With colour B, ch 1, in the blo sc in each of the next 16 sts, sc3tog over next sc, sl st, next sc, sc in each of the next 47 sts, sc3tog in the next sc, sl st, sc, sc in the final 15 sts.  Join with a sl st. (80 sts)

Rnd 2: Ch 1, working in the blo sc in each of the next 15 sts, sc3tog, sc in each of the next 45 sc, sc3tog, sc in each of the final 14 sts, join with a sl st.  (76 sts)

Rnd 3: Ch 1, working in the blo sc in each of the next 14 sts, sc3tog, sc in each of the next 43 sts, sc3tog, sc in each of the next 13 sts; do not join, but mark the first st with a stitch marker.  (72 sts)

Rnds 4-29: Ch 1, working in the blo sc in each st all the way around without joining in the first st.  Instead, mark the first st and move the stitch marker as your work progresses.  

Change to colour A in the last st of rnd 29; join with a sl st in the first st.  (72 sc) 

Toe (Worked in rounds):

Rnds 30-33: With colour A, ch 1, working in the blo sc in each st all the way around; at the end of rnd 33, join with a sl st in the first st.  (72 sc) 

Rnd 34: With colour A, ch 1,working in the blo * sc in each of the next 7 sts, sc2tog; rpt from * all the way around, join in the first st with a sl st.  (64 sts)

Rnd 35: Ch 1, working in the blo* sc in each of the next 6 sts, sc2tog; rpt from * all the way around, join in the first st with a sl st. (56 sts)

Rnd 36: Ch 1, working in the blo * sc in each of the next 5 sts, sc2tog; rpt from * all the way around, join in the first st with a sl st. (48 sts)

Rnd 37: Ch 1, working in the blo * sc in each of the next 4 sts, sc2tog; rpt from * all the way around, join in the first st with a sl st. (40 sts)

Rnd 38: Ch 1, working in the blo * sc in each of the next 3 sts, sc2tog; rpt from * all the way around, join in the first st with a sl st. (32 sts)

Rnd 39: Ch 1, working in the blo * sc in each of the next 2 sts, sc2tog; rpt from * all the way around, join in the first st with a sl st.  (24 sts)

Rnd 40: Ch 1, working in the blo * sc in the next st, sc2tog; rpt from * all the way around, join in the first st with a sl st.  (16 sts)

Rnd 41: Ch 1, working in the blo *sc2tog; rpt from * all the way around, join in the first st with a sl st.  (8 sts)

Rnd 42: Ch 1, sc in each st around; join with a sl st.  (8 sts)

Fasten off leaving a long tail.  Using the tail sew the toe of the sock closed.  Fasten off and weave in ends.

Hanger:

Find centre back of stocking and with colour B join yarn with a sl st on the inside of the cuff (Make sure it is secure!).  Ch 15, join once again on the inside of the cuff.  Turn, ch 1, sl st in each st all the way across and join once again on the inside of the cuff.  Fasten off and weave in ends.

Video Tutorial:

 

 

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