Hats and Headbands, Holiday Decor

Shamrock Toque (Hat!) – A Free Crochet Pattern

St. Patrick’s Day is a bit of a fun celebration in Canada.  Before Easter, it’s that first sign that the cold, dark winter is coming to a close.

Depending on what city or town you find your self in you may benefit from a variety of celebrations and parties.

Where we lived a few years ago boasted of the biggest St. Patrick’s Day Celebration in Ontario.  There were a number of festivities and concerts on that week, all summed up with a festive parade.

Because in March we find ourselves in the awkward season between winter and spring, sometimes it is still quite cold and snowy, so one can always benefit from a good winter toque.


Similar to my Maple Leaf Toque (FOUND HERE), this hat is worked in the knit stitch (also known as the waistcoat stitch).  This is what gives the hat a knit look.  What can I say, I’m a knitter wannabe (but this stitch may be as close as I get)!

I’ve used some Bernat Super Saver yarn (Worsted weight) that I had on hand and a 6 mm crochet hook.  Instead of writing out some pretty complicated written instructions, I have included a simple chart for you to work when working the shamrock colour work.

In the graph each square equals one stitch, and the stitch is worked in the colour shown. To change colours, when completing the stitch prior to the colour change simply draw the new colour through to finish the stitch. You may choose to crochet over the yarn that is not in use, or carry it behind your work. Under the pattern notes below I have included the formula for adjusting the size of your hat.

If you would like to save this pattern to your library in Ravelry, you may do so by CLICKING HERE.  To add it to your Etsy favourites, you may do so by CLICKING HERE.  Through those links you may also purchase an ad free PDF version.

Thank you, Happy St. Patrick’s Day and Happy Crocheting!




Skill Level: Easy

Gauge: 13 sts x 18 rows = 4 inches

Finished Size: Approximately 10 inches tall (excluding Pom-Pom), 23 inches circumference

Yarn: Main Colour (Colour A): 1 ball, colour Kelly Green Bernat Super Saver (100% Acrylic; 197g / 7 oz, 389 meters / 426 yards; weight: 4 – Medium – Worsted)

            Contrasting colour (Colour B): 1 ball, colour white Bernat Super Saver (100% Acrylic; 197g / 7 oz, 389 meters / 426 yards; weight: 4 – Medium – Worsted)

Contrasting colour (Colour C): 1 ball, colour Black Bernat Super Saver (100% Acrylic; 197g / 7 oz, 389 meters / 426 yards; weight: 4 – Medium – Worsted)

Hook: 6 mm (10/J)

 Notions: Yarn Needle, stitch marker.

Stitches and Abbreviations:
Blo – Back Loop Only
Ch – Chain
Ks – Knit Stitch (Also called the Waistcoat Stitch)
Ks2tog – knit stitch two together
Lp – loop
Lps – loops
Rpt – Repeat
Sc – Single Crochet
Sk – Skip
Sl st – Slip stitch
Yo – Yarn over

Pattern Notes:

  • Pattern is written in American English terms.
  • Pattern is worked in rounds.
  • Join not join at the end of a round unless otherwise stated. Instead use a stitch marker to mark the first stitch and move it up as your work progresses.
  • Weave in ends as needed.
  • All rounds are worked with the right side facing.
  • For the hat brim, when working through both thickness, at the front of the hat you will work as you would through the knit stitch, then pick up the corresponding stitch of the foundation row now on the inside of the hat, working through the top loops you would normally work through for an sc.
  • While working the graph, you may crochet over the non-working yarn, or carry it behind your work.
  • The knit stitch does not have a lot of stretch. If you would like a larger brim for your hat, increase your starting chain by multiples of 4.  Then for each multiple of 4 you will increase the stitch count space of colour B between the Shamrocks by one.  For example, with a chain of 64 the colour B between the shamrocks is three stitches.  If you increase the starting chain to 68, the colour B between the Shamrocks will increase to 4 sts.  The rest of the pattern will remain the same.


With colour A, ch 64.  Being careful not to twist chain, join with a sl st in the first chain.

Rnd 1: Working in the back bumps of chain, ch 1, loosely sc in each ch around.  Do not join.  (64 sts)

Rnd 2: Ks in the first st (mark this st), ks in each st around.  Do not join.  (64 sts)

Rnds 3-13: Ks in each st around (moving stitch marker as work progresses).  Do not Join until last round at which time you will join with a sl st. (64 sts)

Rnd 14: Working blo, ch 1, sc in each st around.  Do not join.  (64 sts)

Rnds 15-23: Ks in each st around.  Join colour C in the last st.  Do not join (moving stitch marker as work progresses).   (64 sts)

Rnd 24: With colour C, ks in each st around.  Join colour B in the last st.  Do not join. (64 sts)

For rounds 25-38, Begin working the graph below.  You will start on row 25 on the bottom right hand side corner.  Work the horizontal rows (working right to left), each colour block representing one knit stitch in the colour shown.  The pattern will be repeated four (4) times.  When you reach the end of the row on the graph, simply begin again on the right side of the graph.  Remember to move your stitch marker up each row as your work progresses.

 At round 27 (while continuing to follow the pattern outlined in the graph, where you worked in the blo, fold fabric under to the inside of the hat.  This will become your double thick brim.  For round 27 work through both thickness, this includes the foundation row that has now been turned under for the hat brim – see pattern notes.

Once you have finished working the chart, you will proceed as follows:

Rnd 39: With colour B, ks in each st around.  Join colour C in the last st.  Do not join. Fasten off colour B.  (64 sts)

Rnd 40: With colour C, ks in each st around.  Join colour A in the last st.  Do not join. Fasten off Colour C.  (64 sts)

Rnds 41-46: With colour A, ks in each st around.  Do not join. (64 sts)

Decrease Rounds:

Rnd 47: With colour A, * Ks in the next 6 sts, ks2tog.  Rpt from * around.  Do not join.  (56 sts)

Rnd 48: * Ks in the next 5 sts, ks2tog.  Rpt from * around.  Do not join.  (48 sts)

Rnd 49: * Ks in the next 4 sts, ks2tog.  Rpt from * around.  Do not join.  (40 sts)

Rnd 50: * Ks in the next 3 sts, ks2tog.  Rpt from * around.  Do not join.  (32 sts)

Rnd 51: * Ks in the next 2 sts, ks2tog.  Rpt from * around.  Do not join.  (24 sts)

Rnd 52: * Ks in the next st, ks2tog.  Rpt from * around.  Join with a sl st in the first st.  (16 sts)

Fasten off leaving a long tail.  Use this tail to sew the top of the hat closed.  Optional: Using the colours used in the hat, make a Pom Pom and attach it to the top.


The photographs and pattern contained in this document are the property of Rich Textures Crochet.

This pattern is for personal use only.

No unauthorized reproduction, in whole or in part, or distribution of this pattern or content is permitted.  ALL FINISHED PRODUCTS from this pattern can be used for local sales and sold online.

Thank you so much for supporting Rich Textures Crochet! To stay in touch or see more great products, be sure to visit me on Facebook and Instagram (Rich Textures Crochet) or at www.richtexturescrochet.com.  Thanks again! Happy Crocheting!

13 thoughts on “Shamrock Toque (Hat!) – A Free Crochet Pattern”

  1. I love this hat! 😀 I just wanted to point out a difference I noticed between the pattern and the picture of the hat. In the pattern, you start the shamrock graph immediately after row 24 (black), then you have one row of white and one row of black after the graph. However, in the picture, there is an additional row of white before the shamrock graph. I was too far along in my work to go back and fix that, but I also I think it looks good with the shamrock coming right out of the black. 🙂

  2. Thank you for posting this pattern! I’ve been wanting to try a graph pattern but was intimidated. This will be my first. Fingers crossed!

  3. I’m having trouble figuring out how to ks after the blo sc in the 14-15 round. Where do I put the hook to make the ks? Do you have a video tutorial? Love the pattern! Thanks for sharing it!

    1. Hi Sue, The is worked in the sc after the blo will be worked the same as you would have done when working into the foundation row of sc at the very beginning of the hat. Remember to keep the first row of sc super super loose. When working in the sc, try inserting your hook at a slight diagonal (point hook slightly to the left) instead of straight through. I am working on a video tutorial, but unfortunately it’s not completed yet.

  4. Love your hat. I am trying to make one for my daughter and have torn it out 3 times. I am on row 15 From the picture it looks like I should be doing a row of Black but by your directions it has me work 15-23 in Green(I am guessing) Am I wrong on that? Please help

    1. Hi Valencia, the pattern features a double thick brim – so the first 14 rounds worked in green are actually turned under, and then the rounds 15-23 which worked in green form the outer part of the brim (I designed it with a double thick brim to make it a bit warmer for those who are still in the throws of a Canadian winter mid March). If you would like to make it without the double thick brim, you may start the black at round 15 and then on the chart just make sure you change the round numbers accordingly 🙂 hope that makes sense!

    1. Hi Margie! I do have a couple of tips and I think the best way for me to describe them would be to put together a quick video. I will post the link here this evening for you!

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